Study on Pattern Making of a Trouser

Pattern making is a vital aspect of garment production, playing a critical role in ensuring the proper fit, structure, and functionality of the finished product. It is the process of creating a template from which parts of a garment are traced onto fabric before cutting. In the case of trousers, pattern making involves a deep understanding of body shape, fabric behavior, and construction techniques to create a well-fitted and comfortable garment.

In this article, we will explore the process of pattern making for trousers, from basic principles to advanced techniques, covering the key elements involved, the importance of accurate measurements, and the tools and methods used in the creation of trouser patterns.

 

What is Pattern Making?

Pattern making is the creation of templates or "patterns" that are used to cut fabric pieces for garment construction. These patterns are made based on a set of measurements and design specifications, ensuring that the garment fits well and can be sewn together properly. For trousers, this involves creating templates for each component of the garment, such as the front and back legs, waistband, fly, and pockets.

Pattern making can be done manually using paper and drafting tools or digitally using specialized software. In both cases, the key to successful pattern making lies in understanding garment construction, fabric properties, and body measurements.

 

Components of a Trouser Pattern

A basic trouser pattern consists of several important components, each serving a specific function in the final garment. The main parts of a trouser pattern include:

1. Front Leg Piece – The front section of the trousers, which is the largest piece in the pattern. It includes the waist, hips, and inseam.
2. Back Leg Piece – The rear section of the trousers. The back leg is often shaped differently than the front to accommodate the curvature of the body and ensure proper fit in the seat area.
3. Waistband – The waistband is the band of fabric that sits at the waist. It is typically added separately from the main body pieces of the trousers and is responsible for holding the garment in place.
4. Fly – The fly is a common feature in trousers, providing a method of fastening the waistband. The fly is usually constructed using a zipper or button closure.
5. Pockets – Pockets can be added in various styles, including side pockets, back pockets, or coin pockets, and are often sewn as part of the trouser pattern.
6. Cuffs or Hem – The lower edge of the trouser legs can either be finished with a hem or cuffs, depending on the style of the trouser.
7. Yoke – The yoke is a part of the back of the trousers that helps shape the seat area and adds extra comfort.

Each component needs to be accurately drafted to ensure the trousers fit properly and provide the desired comfort and appearance.

 

Steps in Trouser Pattern Making

The pattern making process for trousers involves a series of steps, from taking measurements to cutting the final fabric pieces. Below is a step-by-step guide to creating a basic trouser pattern:

1. Taking Measurements

• Accurate measurements are the foundation of good pattern making. For trousers, essential measurements include:
• Waist measurement
• Hip measurement
• Inseam (length from crotch to ankle)
• Out seam (length from waist to ankle)
• Rise (distance from the crotch to the waistband)
• Thigh circumference
• Knee circumference
• Ankle circumference
• Waist-to-hip length
• These measurements can be taken using a flexible measuring tape and should be recorded carefully for accuracy.

2. Drafting the Basic Block

• The basic trouser block is a starting point for the pattern. It is drafted using the measurements taken in the previous step. The front and back blocks are drawn separately, with consideration for ease (extra room for movement), darts (for shaping), and grainlines (to ensure the fabric stretches in the correct direction).
• The front and back pieces are drawn on separate paper, ensuring that each side is proportionate to the other. The back piece often requires additional shaping to accommodate the seat and hip areas.

3. Creating the Waistband

• The waistband is drafted based on the waist measurement. It is typically cut as a separate piece and can be designed with various types of closures, such as buttons, zippers, or hook-and-eye fasteners.
• The waistband may include a small amount of ease or allowance to ensure that the trousers are not too tight at the waist.

4. Adding Pockets

• If the trousers are to have pockets, they are incorporated into the pattern after the main pieces are drafted. There are many styles of pockets, including side-seam pockets, welt pockets, or patch pockets, each requiring a different pattern shape.
• For side-seam pockets, the pocket bag is usually added to the front leg piece of the pattern. For back pockets, a separate pattern piece is created.

5. Drafting the Fly and Zipper Area

• For trousers with a zipper fly, the pattern for the fly opening is drafted next. The fly typically includes a small extension on the front leg piece to create the flap that folds over the zipper. This piece must be shaped and sized according to the design of the fly, whether it is a button or zip fly.

6. Shaping the Back Leg

• The back leg pattern piece often requires more shaping than the front leg to ensure a proper fit in the seat area. Dart placement is crucial for shaping the garment and achieving a tailored fit.

7. Adding the Cuffs or Hem

• The lower edge of the trouser legs can be finished with cuffs or a hem. The pattern should allow for extra fabric at the ankle area to accommodate the cuffs or hem finish. The length of the trousers should be adjusted based on the desired style (e.g., cropped or full-length trousers).

8. Final Adjustments and Smoothing

• Once all the components have been drafted, the pattern pieces are reviewed for accuracy. Any adjustments to the fit or design elements (e.g., adding extra ease, shaping darts, or adjusting pocket placements) should be made before proceeding to cutting.

9. Creating a Sample

• After completing the pattern, a sample garment is usually sewn from muslin or a similar fabric to test the fit. This allows the pattern maker to assess any issues with the fit, design, or construction and make the necessary corrections before cutting the final fabric.

 

Tools Used in Trouser Pattern Making

The following tools are commonly used in the pattern-making process for trousers:

1. Pattern Paper: This is the foundation of the pattern. It can be plain or dotted, and it allows the designer to trace, cut, and modify the pattern as needed.
2. Measuring Tape: Essential for taking accurate body measurements to ensure proper fit.
3. Rulers and French Curves: These tools help create straight lines and smooth curves, essential for shaping the trouser pattern, particularly around the waist, hip, and thigh areas.
4. Scissors: To cut the pattern pieces from paper and fabric.
5. Pencil or Pattern Marker: To mark key points such as notches, darts, and grainlines on the pattern.
6. Weights or Pins: To hold the pattern pieces in place on fabric during cutting.
7. Seam Allowance Ruler: This tool helps add consistent seam allowances to the pattern.

 

Importance of Accurate Pattern Making

The accuracy of the pattern is crucial for ensuring the trousers fit well and meet the desired design specifications. Even minor errors in measurements or design can result in fit problems, such as trousers being too tight, too loose, or poorly shaped in certain areas. A well-made pattern also contributes to smoother garment construction, reducing the time spent on adjustments during sewing.

Furthermore, pattern making helps optimize fabric usage, as it ensures the pattern pieces are arranged efficiently, minimizing waste and reducing costs.

 

Conclusion

Pattern making is a fundamental skill in garment design and production. For trousers, an accurate and well-drafted pattern is key to achieving a good fit, comfort, and style. By understanding the steps involved in the process and utilizing the right tools and techniques, pattern makers can create trousers that meet both functional and aesthetic needs. With advancements in digital pattern making, the process has become more efficient and precise, ensuring that high-quality garments are produced in an increasingly competitive industry.