Study on Pattern Making of a Basic Shirt

Pattern making is an essential part of garment construction that allows designers to create well-fitting and functional clothing. The process involves translating the measurements and design specifications into a template, or pattern, from which the fabric is cut and sewn. In the case of a basic shirt, pattern making ensures the garment fits comfortably, drapes well, and suits the wearer’s body shape. This article explores the steps and components involved in pattern making for a basic shirt, highlighting the tools, techniques, and considerations for creating an ideal pattern.

What is Pattern Making?

Pattern making is the process of creating the templates used to cut fabric for garment construction. It involves measuring, drafting, and designing the different parts of the garment, ensuring they fit together correctly when sewn. In shirt making, this includes creating patterns for the body, sleeves, collar, cuffs, and other components. The accuracy of the pattern is crucial because it directly affects the final fit, comfort, and appearance of the garment.

A basic shirt pattern consists of several primary components, each of which must be designed and drafted separately, keeping in mind the specific measurements and fit requirements of the wearer. These components typically include the front body piece, back body piece, sleeves, collar, cuffs, and pocket(s).

Components of a Basic Shirt Pattern

1. Front Body Piece: The front body piece is the largest part of the shirt pattern. It includes the neckline, shoulder seam, armholes, side seams, and the length of the shirt. This pattern is drafted based on the chest measurement, waist measurement, and desired length of the shirt.
2. Back Body Piece: The back body piece is similar to the front but may be shaped differently to account for the natural curve of the back. The back pattern generally includes a center back seam, which may be optional depending on the design. This piece is drafted with the same measurements as the front, though slight adjustments may be made for ease.
3. Sleeves: The sleeves are a critical component of the shirt pattern and must be drafted based on the armhole measurement and sleeve length. The sleeve patterns consist of the top sleeve piece and the under-sleeve piece, both of which need to be shaped to fit properly into the armhole. The sleeve pattern is generally created with a slight curve to match the natural contour of the arm.
4. Collar: The collar is a defining feature of a shirt and can be designed in various styles, such as a classic button-down collar, mandarin collar, or spread collar. The collar pattern includes the collar band (the part that sits around the neck) and the collar itself (which lies flat against the shirt’s neckline). The collar’s size and shape are determined based on the neck measurement and the shirt's design.
5. Cuffs: Shirt cuffs are usually found at the end of the sleeves and can be made in different styles, such as single or double cuffs. The cuff pattern includes the cuff band (the part that wraps around the wrist) and the cuff flap (the part that folds back). The width and length of the cuffs are based on the wrist measurement and desired style.
6. Pocket: Many shirts include a chest pocket, which is typically added to the front body piece. The pocket pattern is simple, consisting of a rectangular shape, though it can be modified with different designs, such as a welt pocket or flap pocket, depending on the desired aesthetic.
7. Placket: The placket is the strip of fabric that runs down the front of the shirt where the buttons are placed. It is drafted as part of the front body piece and typically includes additional seam allowances for folding and sewing.

Steps in Shirt Pattern Making

The process of making a pattern for a basic shirt involves several steps, from taking accurate measurements to drafting the pattern pieces and sewing a sample garment. Below are the key steps involved in shirt pattern making:

1. Taking Measurements

Accurate measurements are essential to ensure a well-fitting shirt. The main measurements required for a shirt pattern include:

• Neck circumference
• Chest circumference
• Waist circumference
• Hip circumference (if the shirt is long)
• Shoulder width
• Sleeve length
• Armhole circumference
• Shirt length
• Wrist circumference (for cuff size)

These measurements are the basis for drafting the shirt’s front and back pieces, sleeves, collar, and cuffs.

2. Drafting the Basic Shirt Block

The first step in creating a shirt pattern is to draft a basic shirt block. This is done by using the measurements taken earlier and drawing the front and back body pieces. The body pieces are drawn as flat shapes on pattern paper, with additional ease added to allow for comfort and movement. The armholes and necklines are carefully shaped to match the body’s curves.

For the back body piece, a center back seam is often included, though it can be omitted for a simpler design. The sleeve block is drawn next, with a slightly curved shape to match the armhole, ensuring that the sleeve fits properly into the body of the shirt.

3. Drafting the Collar

Once the basic body and sleeve patterns are completed, the collar is drafted based on the neck measurement. The collar consists of two main pieces: the collar band (the part that wraps around the neck) and the collar (the part that folds over). The collar band is drafted with the neck circumference plus seam allowances, while the collar is slightly larger to allow it to fold neatly over the band.

The collar pattern also includes an interfacing piece, which is added to the collar for stiffness and structure.

4. Drafting the Cuffs

The cuff pattern is created based on the wrist measurement, with an added seam allowance for ease of movement. The cuff can be made in a simple rectangular shape or designed with a buttonhole flap, depending on the desired style. The cuff band is drafted to fit around the wrist, while the cuff flap can be adjusted for the length and width.

5. Creating the Placket and Pocket

The placket is drafted onto the front body piece, where the buttons and buttonholes will be placed. A strip of fabric is added to the center front of the shirt pattern to create the placket. If a chest pocket is included, a simple rectangular pattern is drawn and placed on the front body piece.

6. Final Adjustments and Adding Seam Allowances

After all the pattern pieces are drafted, seam allowances are added around each piece to account for the sewing process. These allowances allow for stitching the pieces together without altering the shape of the garment. Adjustments are made to ensure that the sleeve fits into the armhole smoothly, and the shirt fits comfortably around the chest, waist, and hips.

7. Creating a Sample Garment

A muslin sample is sewn to test the fit of the pattern. The sample garment is checked for fit, and any issues, such as tightness, looseness, or discomfort, are noted. The pattern is then adjusted accordingly to refine the fit before cutting the final fabric.

Tools Used in Shirt Pattern Making

Several tools are necessary for accurate pattern making. These include:

• Pattern Paper: Used to draw the pattern pieces.
• Measuring Tape: For taking precise body measurements.
• Rulers and French Curves: To create straight lines and smooth curves.
• Scissors: For cutting pattern paper and fabric.
• Pins or Weights: To hold the pattern pieces in place during cutting.
• Pencil or Pattern Marker: For marking important pattern details like notches, darts, and grainlines.

Conclusion

Pattern making is an intricate and important process in shirt production. Accurate drafting of the front and back body pieces, sleeves, collar, cuffs, and other components ensures the shirt will fit well, look great, and be comfortable to wear. By following the steps outlined in this article and using the right tools, pattern makers can create a high-quality basic shirt pattern that serves as the foundation for successful garment production. With attention to detail and careful adjustments, a well-made pattern results in a shirt that fits perfectly and is both functional and stylish.