Best Yarn Counts for T-Shirts, Polo Shirts, and Hoodies

🧶 What is Yarn Count?

Yarn count is a numerical expression that indicates the thickness or fineness of a yarn. It helps spinners, knitters, and garment makers understand how heavy or light a yarn is.

In most textile mills, especially in Bangladesh, India, and China, the English Cotton Count System (Ne) is used.

🧩 Definition (Ne System):

Yarn Count (Ne) = The number of hanks (each hank = 840 yards) in one pound of yarn.

🔹 Examples:

• 20s Ne: 20 hanks (16,800 yards) per pound — relatively thick yarn
• 40s Ne: 40 hanks (33,600 yards) per pound — finer yarn

In simple terms:

• Higher yarn count → finer, softer, lighter fabric
• Lower yarn count → thicker, heavier, and stronger fabric

 

⚙️ Types of Yarn Commonly Used in Knitwear

1. Combed Cotton Yarn:
   Fine, smooth, and clean. Ideal for premium T-shirts and polo shirts.
2. Carded Cotton Yarn:
   Slightly coarse and used for budget or regular quality garments.
3. Compact Yarn:
   Made by compact spinning to reduce hairiness; gives a very smooth surface.
4. Open-End (OE) Yarn:
   Cheaper, coarser, and used for thicker fabrics like fleece hoodies.
5. Blended Yarn:
   Cotton blended with polyester, viscose, or spandex for strength, elasticity, or special properties.

 

👕 1. Best Yarn Counts for T-Shirts

T-shirts are designed to be lightweight, soft, breathable, and comfortable. The yarn count determines how thin or thick the fabric will be, affecting its GSM (grams per square meter) and hand feel.

🧵 Common Yarn Counts for T-Shirts

Yarn Count (Ne)	Fabric Type	GSM Range	Characteristics	Application
20s	Single Jersey	180–200	Coarse, durable, slightly heavy	Basic export T-shirts
24s–26s	Single Jersey	160–180	Balanced softness and weight	Regular fashion T-shirts
30s	Single Jersey	140–160	Soft, lightweight, premium feel	Branded casual T-shirts
40s	Single Jersey	120–140	Ultra-fine, luxurious, smooth	High-end and corporate T-shirts

🌟 Recommendations:

• For mass production basic tees, use 26s carded or combed cotton yarn.
• For premium or export-quality T-shirts, use 30s–40s combed or compact yarn for superior smoothness and comfort.
• For stretchable tees, use cotton + 5% spandex blend.

💡 Additional Tips:

• Use enzyme finishing to achieve a softer hand feel.
• For printing T-shirts, choose 30s combed yarn for a smooth printing surface.
• Compact yarn reduces pilling, improving long-term wear quality.

 

👔 2. Best Yarn Counts for Polo Shirts

Polo shirts differ from T-shirts in both structure and appearance. They are usually made from pique, honeycomb, or lacoste knit fabric, which requires a slightly thicker yarn to create the textured surface and maintain shape.

Polo shirts are commonly used for casual wear, uniforms, and corporate branding, so durability and structure are key factors.

🧵 Common Yarn Counts for Polo Shirts

Yarn Count (Ne)	Fabric Type	GSM Range	Features	Common Usage
20s	Pique / Honeycomb	230–260	Strong, textured, durable	Workwear polos
24s	Pique	200–220	Softer and breathable	Fashion polo shirts
26s–30s	Pique / Lacoste	180–200	Fine texture, high-end look	Premium branded polos

🌟 Recommendations:

• For standard polo shirts, use 20s–24s combed yarn for ideal structure and weight.
• For luxury polos, choose 30s compact combed yarn, and consider mercerized cotton for sheen and durability.
• For corporate polos, a 60% cotton + 40% polyester blend provides better shape retention and wrinkle resistance.

💡 Technical Note:

• Yarn twist should be optimized to prevent torqueing in the finished fabric.
• Pre-shrunk and bio-washed fabric enhances appearance and comfort.

 

🧥 3. Best Yarn Counts for Hoodies

Hoodies are heavier garments meant for warmth and durability. They are typically made from fleece, terry, or brushed fabric. The yarn used here is coarser (lower count) to produce thick, warm material.

Hoodies can range from lightweight fashion wear to thick winter outerwear, depending on the GSM and yarn count.

🧵 Common Yarn Counts for Hoodies

Yarn Count (Ne)	Fabric Type	GSM Range	Characteristics	Application
10s	Fleece / Terry	320–360	Very thick, heavy-duty	Winter hoodies
12s	Fleece / Terry	280–320	Medium weight, soft feel	Standard hoodies
16s	Fleece / Terry	240–280	Lightweight, flexible	Fashion hoodies

🌟 Recommendations:

• For winter wear hoodies, use 10s open-end yarn for higher warmth and structure.
• For medium-weight hoodies, go with 12s–14s combed yarn for comfort and softness.
• For lightweight hoodies, 16s combed cotton gives a smoother surface suitable for prints or embroidery.

💡 Pro Tip:

• Fleece fabrics are often made with cotton/polyester blends (80/20 or 60/40) to combine softness and durability.
• Inner brushing increases insulation and comfort.

 

⚖️ 4. Yarn Count vs. GSM vs. Fabric Type — Comparison Chart

Garment Type	Yarn Count Range (Ne)	Typical GSM	Fabric Type	Key Properties
T-Shirt	26s–40s	140–180	Single Jersey	Soft, breathable, lightweight
Polo Shirt	20s–30s	180–260	Pique / Honeycomb	Textured, durable, structured
Hoodie	10s–16s	250–360	Fleece / Terry	Thick, warm, long-lasting

 

🔬 5. Factors to Consider When Choosing Yarn Count

1. End Use of Garment:
   Whether the fabric is for casual wear, sportswear, or winterwear affects yarn selection.
2. Desired Fabric GSM:
   Higher GSM requires coarser yarn counts.
3. Fabric Construction:
• Single Jersey: Lightweight, soft (used in T-shirts).
• Pique / Honeycomb: Medium weight, structured (used in polos).
• Terry / Fleece: Heavyweight, warm (used in hoodies).
4. Fiber Type & Blend:
• 100% Combed Cotton → Soft, breathable.
• Cotton + Polyester → Durable, wrinkle-resistant.
• Cotton + Spandex → Stretchable and comfortable.
5. Finishing Process:
   Enzyme, silicone, or bio-wash finishes enhance softness and fabric hand feel.
6. Cost Consideration:
   Higher count yarns (like 40s or 50s) are more expensive due to finer fibers and higher spinning quality.

 

🧩 6. Yarn Count Conversion (Ne ↔ Tex ↔ Denier)

Ne (English Count)	Tex	Denier	Typical Use
10s	59	531	Heavy fleece
20s	29.5	266	Polo shirts
30s	19.7	178	T-shirts
40s	14.8	133	Premium lightweight tees

(Lower Tex/Denier = finer yarns)

 

🧠 7. Expert Tips for Production Teams

• Always test yarn strength and evenness before bulk production.
• Ensure consistent twist per inch (TPI) to avoid spirality in knit fabrics.
• Use combed compact yarns for better surface appearance and pilling resistance.
• Keep a balance between comfort and cost — sometimes mid-range counts (26s–30s) give the best performance-to-price ratio.

 

🎯 Conclusion

Choosing the right yarn count is a critical step in fabric and garment development. Each type of garment—T-shirt, polo, or hoodie—has specific requirements for comfort, durability, and performance.

• T-Shirts: 26s–40s combed cotton yarn for softness and breathability.
• Polo Shirts: 20s–24s combed or blended yarn for structure and texture.
• Hoodies: 10s–16s open-end or combed yarn for warmth and durability.

By understanding yarn count selection, textile professionals can create garments that meet the highest quality standards while satisfying both comfort and style expectations of customers worldwide.