Effect of Yarn Twist on Fabric Properties

Yarn twist plays a crucial role in determining the performance, appearance, and overall quality of fabrics. It is one of the most important parameters in yarn manufacturing, directly influencing fabric strength, elasticity, hand feel, and appearance. In simple terms, twist refers to the number of turns inserted into a yarn during spinning, which binds the fibers together to form a cohesive and strong structure. The amount and direction of twist used in a yarn can drastically alter the properties of the resulting fabric.

 

1. What is Yarn Twist?

Yarn twist is defined as the number of turns or coils per unit length of yarn, usually expressed as turns per inch (TPI) or turns per meter (TPM).
There are two types of twist directions:

• S-twist: When the fibers spiral in a direction similar to the central part of the letter “S”.
• Z-twist: When the fibers spiral in a direction similar to the central part of the letter “Z”.

Both S and Z twists are used depending on the desired appearance and end-use of the fabric.

 

2. Importance of Twist in Yarn

The twist helps to:

• Hold fibers together to prevent slippage.
• Increase yarn strength.
• Control yarn appearance and fabric surface texture.
• Adjust elasticity and handle of the fabric.

The correct amount of twist ensures that the yarn performs well during weaving or knitting and provides the desired properties in the finished fabric.

 

3. Effect of Twist on Fabric Properties

a) Fabric Strength

An increase in twist generally increases the strength of the yarn up to a certain level, known as the optimum twist. Beyond this point, additional twisting causes the fibers to coil too tightly, reducing the effective load-bearing capacity, and the yarn strength begins to decrease.

• Low twist yarns → weaker, but softer fabrics.
• High twist yarns → stronger, but stiffer fabrics.

 

b) Fabric Elasticity and Drape

Twist affects how flexible and elastic a yarn is.

• High twist yarns produce fabrics with higher elasticity and lower drape.
• Low twist yarns produce fabrics with better drape and softer feel.
  This is why crepe fabrics, which need a lively and crinkled appearance, are made from high-twist yarns.

 

c) Fabric Appearance and Texture

The amount and direction of twist influence the visual and tactile characteristics of the fabric.

• High twist yarns produce a smoother, tighter surface and a more lustrous appearance.
• Low twist yarns result in a bulkier, fuzzier surface with a softer touch.
• Using opposite twist directions in warp and weft (S and Z twist) can create interesting visual effects like subtle diagonal lines or surface variations.

 

d) Fabric Handle and Softness

The handle (or hand feel) of a fabric is closely linked to yarn twist.

• Low twist yarns make the fabric soft, warm, and comfortable to touch—ideal for knitwear, baby clothes, and casual wear.
• High twist yarns give a crisp, cool, and firm handle, suitable for formal wear and technical textiles.

 

e) Fabric Shrinkage and Dimensional Stability

High twist yarns tend to shrink more during finishing or washing due to the release of internal tension in the yarn. This property can be used intentionally in certain fabrics like crepe or textured weaves to achieve a puckered or crinkled look.
On the other hand, low twist yarns are more dimensionally stable and experience less shrinkage.

 

f) Fabric Pilling and Hairiness

Twist also affects the resistance of fabrics to pilling (formation of small fiber balls).

• Low twist yarns are more prone to pilling and fuzziness because the fibers are loosely bound and easily pulled out.
• High twist yarns reduce hairiness and improve fabric smoothness, thus minimizing pilling.

 

g) Fabric Air Permeability and Comfort

The twist controls the compactness of the yarn.

• Low twist yarns have more air spaces between fibers, resulting in better breathability and moisture absorption.
• High twist yarns are compact, reducing air permeability but improving wind resistance—useful for suiting or outerwear fabrics.

 

4. Optimum Twist Level

Every type of fiber and yarn has an optimum twist level, where the yarn shows maximum strength and balanced performance.
Factors influencing the optimum twist include:

• Fiber type (cotton, polyester, wool, etc.)
• Yarn count (fine or coarse)
• Yarn structure (single or ply)
• End-use of the fabric

For example:

• Coarse cotton yarns require lower twists.
• Fine yarns need higher twists for strength and cohesion.

 

5. Conclusion

The effect of yarn twist on fabric properties is significant and multifaceted. Twist not only affects the strength and durability of the fabric but also influences comfort, texture, elasticity, and appearance. Understanding the relationship between yarn twist and fabric behavior is essential for textile engineers and designers to produce fabrics that meet specific performance and aesthetic requirements.

In short:

“The right twist in the right yarn creates the perfect fabric.”